Today’s lecture was on the History of Kagoshima and was really interesting. I wish we had had it at the beginning of our tour — I think I would have understood a lot of these things better. Sure glad I had all those books from Tracie’s friend to read before I left because that helped a lot. Anyway, we found out today that this area (Kyushu island and Kagoshima) was considered "nest of Barbarians" by the Edo (Tokyo) rulers. They had a much better relationship here with Korea than they did with the central Japan area.

When Tyeyasu Tokugawa became Shogun for the Emperor in 1600 he moved the capital from Kyoto to Tokyo (Edo) — the first Shogun system started in the 12th century — and the emperor became a figurehead. The system lasted 270 years. (The book "Shogun" by James Clavell was not very successful in Japan because of the long descriptions of commonplace - to the Japanese - items: tatami mats, kimonos, etc. These were still a part of normal life to them.)

Though most Japanese now are Buddists, the original religion was Shintoism which has no images but many different gods and goddesses. Christianity arrived in this area in 1549 in the person of a Basque missionary but he was not too successful so he went on to Nagasaki.

The Dutch and the Portugese were the only westerners allowed to trade here and they were confined to a small island which was difficult to enter or leave. At that time Buddist temples provided most of the schooling/education since they were the only places where there was a large enough meeting place. Natural disasters — earthquakes, floods, etc. often led to famine in this area so it wasn’t always a very good life — but by the end of the 17th century it was considered the "happiest" because the most arts and culture reached its peak. (When the first train was sent from Tokyo to Yokohama lots of shoes were left on the platform — they were so used to leaving their shoes off as they entered a building they did the same with the train. Funny.)

After the Meinji reformation — the shogun system was replaced by a diet (parliament) there was a big problem with the number of unemployed Samurai who were not trained to work — just fight. The traditional solution for unemployment was to go to war — usually invade Korea.

In 1877 was the Seinan War when Kagoshima rebelled against the central government — it lasted about 7 months and killed 2023 soldiers.

There are 14 cities on this island of Kyushu — "kyu" means 9 for the nine districts. There are 530,000 people here in Kagoshima. 142 islands in the prefecture — some so small they’re uninhabited.

The afternoon was another bus tour to museums and gardens. First was a large garden , the Shimadzu, that used to belong to the Lord of Kagoshima with the remains of his original house — 1/3 size of originally. (We didn’t get to go inside because our ticket was only for the garden.) The descendents of this lord still own the land and their company collects the admission fees and maintains the place. Luckily it attracts lots of tourists — we were there on a Saturday and it was very crowded. There's an interesting carved rock up high on the hill. Our guide says that it just tells how high it is.

This is a beautiful place to walk — and many interesting stopping places, including lots of overpriced gift shops. This area specializes in a cut crystal glass that is very beautiful (and expensive) and bamboo knick knacks which are very intricate and interesting (also expensive). Our guide told us that her mother always told her to run into a bamboo forest during an earthquake because the roots hold the earth together — I think it’s a Old Japanese Wives tale. Next to the garden is the small museum of relics from the same family. It was not too interesting.

We got back on the bus and went to a much larger museum, the Kagoshima Prefectural Museum of Culture, where there were many more things to look at - but I was really impressed with the quilt display off in a little room next to the tea room. It was fantastic — and all hand made with little tiny hand stitches! Gorgeous. Too bad no photographs are allowed in this museum. (It’s funny how the Japanese cross their hands in an x in front of them when something is not allowed — taking pictures in the museum or entering a particlar area, etc. Definitely let’s you know it’s not allowed even if you don’t speak the language.

Anyway, I had spent the whole afternoon in my floppy slippers because the maid had been doing our room when I went up after lunch to change, so it was a relief to get back and change shoes. However, the maid had locked our bathroom door before she left — we couldn’t get into it. The girl they sent up from the front desk couldn’t either — then she brought two more guys and they finally got it open for us. What a kick.

I walked over to the grocery store for snacking supplies while Mabel rested — then after dinner we made the big excursion to the only internet/email place the hotel knew about. It cost 1200 yen (about $11) one way for the cab to get there and then it was in a rather seedy area by the bus station. However, the nice fella running the place sure knew how to do the computer stuff - at least he could very quickly change it from Japanese to English, and he redid mine when it crashed. Then it only cost 240 yen - less than anyplace we've been so far. Definitely an experience — but we did get our email off to home. Quite a day — and since it’s hard to sleep the first night anyplace, we were very glad to get to bed for our second night.

Sunday — Oct 28

Well, I started today by shipping my big bag to the airport in Tokyo. This is the recommended process when traveling by train in Japan. They have a very efficient process for sending things by "Express" — which is what Kaori used when she sent my bag to the hotel from her house the day before I left because it would be too much hassle when we changed subway trains four times to get there. Anyway, it usually takes one or two days to ship but from here it takes four — so I’m living out of very small bag for the rest of the trip. The hotel does the shipping (for 3200 yen — about $30) and I hope it gets there. I suppose the world would not come to an end if it didn’t make it but it does make one nervous. Especially since the girl at the desk did not exude confidence.

Today we had two lectures scheduled for morning and afternoon — too much sitting for us old people.

The morning was a lecture on the volcanoes and Mt. Sackurajima, which is the one we see from our room. The talk was given by a professor who had a translator — it started out a bit difficult but wound up pretty good when he was showing the slides of the different volcanic/earthquake activity. Basically, this area is based on huge caldera which are gigantic old craters that have smaller volcanoes now growing in and around them. The one across from us blows ash quite often — it blows east in the winter and west in summer, when it often covers the city with a sandy type ash that is hard on the car windows. The last big eruption — 8000 meters in the air — of Mt. Sackurajima was in 1914 and the island ("jima" means island) became a peninsula because of the lava flow. Conduits are built around the mountain to control the lava flow and runoff of pumice and ash. It has had ten major eruptions in the last 20,000 years, which probably had a devastating effect on earlier people.

After lunch we had another lecturer — an American this time so he was easier to understand — but too dull. He did tell us the Satsuma clan started the industry in this area based on bamboo because the rice does not grow well in this climate. (I decided I needed a nap and left early — but I heard he didn’t get better.)

(We all compared notes when we got back, of course, and Mabel had had a regular hen party with her host family — four young housewives with Mabel & Helen. Many of the host families had children so that made it much more informal too. I'm glad I had the experience with Kaori's family first as a comparison. Everyone in our group enjoyed their visits!)

Monday - Oct.29

Today was our all day excursion — first on the cute little ferry across Kinko Bay to Sacurajima (the volcano) and then up the hill for the close up view — close enough anyway. It overlooks the bay full of fish farms and is very impressive. Our guide told us that the people were warned before the 1914 big eruption by the many earthquakes and the snakes and critters that came running out of running. 29 people were still killed. On our drive up to the viewpoint we noticed all the lava outcrops along the road.

Then back on the ferry and headed for our next stop; lunch at a nice restaurant right on the water and then on up a curvy road to town of Chiran, to see the samurai houses and gardens.

We saw the three different types of gardens; dry, pond, and tea.

This party was unbelievable! We were given numbers (1 — 5) out in the main lobby and then ushered into the "party room" (where they have been having wedding receptions for the last two days). There were 30 or 40 Japanese people in there waiting for us — applauding yet. It left us a bit flabbergasted. Then we were told to sit at one end and given leis of paper cranes — a little red headed lady gave me mine! — and we listened to the professional band play koba(?) music on Japanese harps. It was lovely. Then we all went to our assigned tables (that's what the numbers were for) and started in on four heavily laden buffet tables. There were 5 or 6 Japanese — mostly students in English classes — and 4 or 5 from our group at each table. Communication was a bit difficult but they were so appreciative it was rather fun. We did a signature thing on some fancy board things and got acquainted with several of the ones around us. It was definitely a bit overwhelming — such a fantastic production.

Today was a travel day, so a bit of a waste as far as seeing anything important except airports. We didn’t have to have our luggage out til 11:30, then checked out, had lunch, and rode bus for about 45 minutes to the airport. We had about an hour to kill in the airport shops — I found sweet potato candy to take home for gifts. Also found a darling cut glass shot glass for Mani but when I found it cost over 200 dollars I decided she would like sweet potato candy.

Then a very short flight to Osaka — they changed the seat number as I went through the gate so I didn’t have the window seat but I moved up with Mabel so we had 3 seats for the 2 of us — very comfortable, if not much of a view.

We walked from the airport to the airport hotel — which is between the south terminal and the north terminal — and we have a room way down the hall. It’s very small and definitely not first class, but only for one night. We finally got someone to open the window because it was so stuffy, and then the traffic noise was pretty bad. Oh well, you don't need to hear the t.v. when it's all in Japanese anyway.

Mariko (our Kogoshima guide) had come with us to Osaka and she helped me with the arrangements for my train ride tomorrow. I’m scheduled for the 7:58 train which arrives at about 10:30 in Tokyo. I wound up charging it on my card so I have no idea what it costs. Oh well, I’ll probably never do it again.

Weds

Big travel day has arrived — which I immediately screwed up by leaving my sack full of calligraphy and sweet potato candy at the hotel.

Mabel was so sweet — she got up at 5 to make me tea before I left. I think we were both rather excited to be going home today. Anyway, I left about 6:20 a.m. and finally found a cab at the other end of the terminal to take me to Shin Osaka which is the "bullet train" station —I remembered my sack of stuff about halfway to the station but since the fare was already up to $30, I couldn’t go back for it. Cost from the hotel to the railway station was 4200 yen which is about $40 — too bad the shuttle bus didn’t start till 8.

I didn’t really see much of Osaka, except to notice it's another big city, but the depot was clean and bright. I finally got in the right line to get my ticket — luckily Marika had set it up for me the night before so all I had to do was show my charge card (14,720 yen — about $140; wonder what it will be on my mastercard bill?) and found the right gate (26), car (2 — the train stops at predesignated places so you wait where your car will be) and made sure I got on the train that came in a 7:53. Cinch. But I wish I hadn’t left my sack of goodies at the hotel. Oh well, maybe Mabel will take it.

These trains are very smooth — one of the guys on our tour said it was because the rails are welded together. It sure doesn’t have the clickety clack that we normally associate with trains. More like a monorail ride.

Various girls wander through the cars in their cute little pastel striped uniforms selling things — most of which I can’t identify. They don’t seem to get many takers though.

This is the "express" train, which means it only makes 3 stops between Osaka and Tokyo — at Kyoto, Nagoya, Yokohama, and then Tokyo station. The car was only half full when we left Osaka but after Nagoya it became much more crowded. Glad they are reserved seats.

The land is flat mostly and houses are built very close together except in sort of farm areas where the houses are surrounded by garden.

Finally arrived at Tokyo station — at 10:33 — and it only took me till 11 to find the "meeting place". It’s so sensible to have a place in a junction between trains and subways called a meeting place, Kaori and her daughter, Azusu, found me there and I was really tickled to see them. We found a locker for my stuff and she found the way to the Oriental Bazaar that everyone was talking about after our Tokyo visit. And it was great — I found yukatas for everyone at home and they were much cheaper than anyplace else I’ve seen, plus fantastic patterns. (But I didn’t get a rain chain like Liz did.) Of course, by the time I was through shopping (6 yukatas and 2 teeshirts.) we all needed some lunch — I barely made it back to the train depot in time for the Narita Express. But I did, and fit a few of the purchases in my little bag. Finally found the place at the airport to get my big bag — It made it! — and fit the rest in there so I still only had 2 bags to check and one carryon. Couldn’t believe that stuff all fit. Kaori even gave me another present and sent some things for Micki — I don’t feel so bad about the sweet potato candy now.

I made it through security without having anything confiscated this time and was glad to be in flight. I lucked out again and am on the end of a five seat row in the middle with only one other person at the other end. (The pilot says we'll land a half hour earlier than scheduled — only planning 7 or 8 hours. Must be some tailwind.)

I must admit it’s nice to hear American voices again — besides the people on the tour, we have had a lot of struggle understanding things. There is an awful nice attitude in most areas though — someone will always help.

We really did land half an hour early - and Skip was right there to pick me up. Another plane came in from Tokyo and had to sit there for two hours because of some type of investigation of two of the passengers. Sure glad I wasn't on that one.

Interesting(?) trivia from the trip:

Japanese saying about "acorns comparing their height" — has to do with something being so minor, why bother. (like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic)

The Japanese are so tickled and appreciative when you try to say something in their language — as opposed to French who sneer at you for even attempting. I’m almost able to ask for my key (room number) in Japanese. In Morioka it was Rocco itchee hatchee — or vice versa.

Japanese eat crysantemums — remove petals and cook center.

Japanese hotel rooms all have emergency flashlights plugged into the wall for use, just in case. And each guest has a yukata (cotton bathrobe) supplied by the hotel. You can even see gentlemen sitting around the lobby in them.

I sure like the heated toilet seats with warm water squirting on you when you want — still can’t figure how to fit it in my suitcase. But I sure don’t like the step up into so many of the hotel bathrooms.

The Japanese do not seem to be very aware of underground wiring — many of the best views are spoiled by wires and poles sticking up.

I couldn't believe the number of Japanese people who were so happy to see us (and practice their English on us) - after last month's disaster they were sure nobody would come. But we did (25 out of the original 31 anyway) and they sure did it up with bells on to make us feel welcome.

Best thing about Japan - Heated toilet seats, friendly people

Worst - I really don't like raw fish; it feels yucky in your mouth.

Surprising - I can eat with chopsticks (must be pretty good at it 'cause I sure didn't lose any weight!)

Beautiful - gardens, kimonos, children

Unpleasant - TV that starts in English and switches; no CNN (Oh well, the news isn't much fun anyway!)

Clever - fushiki are the cloth squares used to tie up bundles; no need for all those plastic bags

Expensive - weddings Although the dresses/kimonos are usually rented and it's more often than not a "love match" rather than the old matchmaker system, they seem to spend an awful lot on the weddings. Even the guests get gifts.

Interesting - the two gentlemen on the train who exchanged business cards with much bowing and studying of each other's card.

Unusual - smoking volcano at Kagoshima

Disappointing - high prices on so many things, but not unexpected

Funniest - Two gentlemen in Tokyo hotel lobby late at night who had obviously spent the last several hours enjoying saki (or whatever). They kept trying to outbow each other - I was sure one or the other would fall over before they finally said good night.

Peculiar - so many "decisions" were made with the "Rock, Paper, Scissors" game, especially in Morioka (Jong Ken Hoi )

Amazing - the bus was 30 minutes late to pick us up one day (they'd forgotten us) and an official (senior executive, we were told) caught up with us at our first stop to make an official apology! Would that ever happen here?????

Different - bathtubs kept full of water (with covers) so people in the family all bathe in the same water. We were told that the father/man always used to bathe first, but nowadays the men work such long hours that it is no longer followed. They used to even wash men's and women's clothes separately.

We had a really good group ( no one we felt like voting off the island anyway) and pretty good weather - all makes a trip better. And now, of course, I'm glad to be home, especially without any awful terrorist events.

Taking the AlphaSmart (Thanks, Bud) to record notes as I went along worked very well, though I find it difficult to switch back and forth from past tense to present tense - one of those grammar things - so if these notes seem a bit disjointed, that's probably why.

Japan is a fascinating country with friendly people, and I'd like to go back and see some of the other areas I missed this time. We flew over Mt. Fuji but I was on the wrong side so I have to go back to see that. Guess I'll have to start saving for the next trip.